Connemara

Me in front of some of the abandoned fields
Me in front of some of the abandoned fields

Today (September 7th), we all met at Tammi and Megan’s apartment at 9 am. Our bus was there, and our bus driver, Brian Knight. We’re headed to Connemara as I’m writing this. Brian is giving us a complete overview of Irish history as we drive, and it’s the most interesting thing I’ve ever heard in my life. We’re focusing quite a bit on the period when the British ruled Ireland (he HATES the British). We’re currently discussing the potato famine, which began in 1845. According to Brian, there was plenty of food in Ireland during the famine. Fish, grain, and things like that were still fine, but the Irish people couldn’t buy any of it. They had no money. The British announced a “famine” (total loss of all food). The p

The creek (which looks like something out of the Viking books)
The creek (which looks like something out of the Viking books)

otato blight actually affected the UK and most of Europe right into Italy. Finally, out of embarrassment, the British came up with the solution of getting rid of the Irish. They gave you a ticket out on a crammed, awful ship, or else you had to pay your rent. And if you couldn’t, they burned your house down and evicted you.

We’re in the deserted village, now. 6 million people used to live in an area like this. All of these plots used to have houses in them, most with a cow or a few pigs. Now it’s empty field.

And I feel like that basically says everything. The people who are still here sometimes still have clotheslines outside of their houses (imagine how good that smells!). The people her

Elisha, Livia and I in front of the mountains and lake
Elisha, Livia and I in front of the mountains and lake

e do pretty well for themselves, now. It’s the second biggest fishing port in the country. The people in places like this kept the Irish language and culture alive.

And yet, as Brian says, something good always comes out of something bad, and so it was in this situation. People left Ireland in droves, and the United States welcomed them. Here they educated their children and sent money over for other relatives to come. And then when Ireland declared itself a republic and was cut off from trade by England, it was the Irish Americans who came to their aid and began a short period of economic prosperity in Ireland.

We keep stopping along the way at the most beautiful places. First in the deserted village, to see the stone walls crisscrossing empty fields, second at a rushin

Kylemore Abbey
Kylemore Abbey

g creek which looked just like a place from the Viking books, Mary Kate. There was purple heather everywhere, and the water was pure because the peat filters it. We all tried it.

Then we stopped at a hotel to use the restroom and many of us bought things in the gift shop, which had beautiful Celtic jewelry and all kinds of stationary and postcards. Our next stop was at a loch (lake) surrounded by mountains. It was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in my life. I found a perfect outcropping to sit on, I could see everything and I felt like I was in the Dark Ages. Elisha even taught me how to skip a rock for the first time.

Next we stopped at Kylemore Abbey. We didn’t go in, because only like three rooms are open and it isn’t worth it. It’s an old house built by a British politician named Mitchell Henry in the 1840s or 50s for his wife. Only the houses of the good landowners remained through the Irish war for independence, those who cared for their tenants. Henry’s wife died soon after, and his daughter next, and they are both buried there. That’s when he left, and the house was bought later during World War I and turned into an abbey and a girl’s boarding school. It only stopped being a girl’s school about 18 months ago.  When Henry died, he too was brought back and buried there. The house was UNBELIEVEABLE. It’s just like it looks in pictures. Fun fact: there’s a little white figure halfway up the mountain behind the abbey which is a statue of Jesus.  Sometimes when a girl misbehaved she had to climb up there and put a note in the lett

Need I say more?
Need I say more?

erbox behind it to prove that she did it.

Soon were on the sky road, which winds right around the side of a mountain and from which you can look down on this whole swath of Ireland. It’s all yellow and green patchwork, with houses and animals interspersed, right on the edge of the sea. I took pictures, but I don’t feel like they do it any kind of justice at all. Like Emily said, I sit here and just think Jesus.

On the way down, Heidi, the bus slowed down so that Brian could show us a breed of horse only bred here called a Connemara Gray. We only saw a baby one, but apparently, they’re good for jumping shows, pulling loads – basically everything.

We arrived at the beach, and several people changed because they actually planned to swim. Michaela, Olivia, Luna (that’s Lauren’s perpetual nickname, we call her that because she looks so much like Luna Lovegood from Harry Potter), and I decided that we could get our feet wet in the Atlantic Ocean without being miserable the rest of the night, and that seemed smarter. I videotaped the rest of them running in, though, it was hilarious! After everyone was redressed, I climbed up onto higher ground with Aaron, Emily, and Izzy. It was such a beautiful view, with the water crashing against the rocks and washing up on the beach, perfectly blue and clear. You could see islands way out.

I sat by some crashing water for awhile and then climbed back up and joined Aaron and Emily as we marveled at the absolute magnificence of God’s creation. Aaron thought of the song “Oceans” by Hillsong United. Then we climbed back down to the little hollow between dunes where Brian was grilling dinner. To be perfectly honest, after a hamburger and a half, cheese, fruit, and these little cupcake things, I was still hungry. This has sure been a day. We all finished by asking what people’s favorite hymns are and singing a verse of each one. Then we took pictures of the sunset, and then we loaded the bus up again.

We’re driving home again through beautiful, beautiful scenery. Boy, has this been a ride. I’ve learned so much, and I’ve seen even more. One more perfect day to weave into the fabric of a dream come true.

Quotes of the Day:

“The British announced to the world that there was a famine in Ireland. Well, I’m here to tell you today that there was no famine. It was a myth.” – Brian Knight

“I feel so content and yet so discontent at the same time. Like, content because I’m just so content here and it’s beautiful, and yet discontent because I want more. It’s a really good feeling.” – Emily (may be somewhat paraphrased)

“I could get lint out of my belly button that way.” – Ben (no idea why, I tuned into a conversation on the back of the bus at precisely that instant)

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2 Responses
  1. Uncle Brooks

    So glad you were able to visit Connemara; beautiful isn’t it? Rugged but breathtaking. Hope you got to visit the Kylemore Abbey. Hope it was everything I had indicated. Also the boys and I went fly fishing in a rushing stream for salmon not far from this area. I know you are have a great time. Your writing is wonderful.

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